How they were made- an account from 1851

The first process is to take a pine plank and form it, by jointing and gluing it, into a block (it used to be made from solid timber but the jointing is the better process). The block thus prepared is reduced by the drawing knife and plane to the shape of the horses body. It is then what we call bevelled and morticed, to make the holes into which into which the legs of the horse are placed. The head is shaped out of solid wood (pine), after a pattern cut out of strong paste-board or thin plank, but we have merely the outline supplied by the pattern; what what may be called the anatomy, with the eyes, the nostrils, the skill of the workman being directed altogether by his eye. The legs (of beech) are shaped without pattern, the skill of the workman again having no guide beyond his eye; and the 'tenant' is then cut in the leg - the tenant being a portion of wood left on the top of the leg to be fitted in the mortice hole made for that end in the body. Next the head is affixed, being jointed by a great nicety of adjustment to the body of the rocking horse, and then the toy in its rough state is complete.

After that it is what we call 'worked off' - that is, each part has to be duly shaped, so that all may be in accordance: head, body, legs. Without that there would be no symmetry. The 'working off' is a four hours process (taking the average sizes), and very hard work. The first layer of composition is then applied and left to dry, which takes from eight to ten hours. The rasp is then used all over the article, and then another layer of composition is applied, and then a third: this is done to get a smooth level surface. The last application is rubbed down with glass paper.

The horse is then painted, and the legs are screwed and fitted to the 'rocker', or frame, which is made before the horse is finished. It is then harnessed - we do the saddlers work ourselves: and after that the mane and tail are affixed. Then the rocking horse is complete, unless glass eyes have to be put in the head, as is often the case.

These days my restoration or manufacture is virtually identical except I use hardwood and it gives me a sense of history when I make these horses.

Note, wood will always continue to expand and contract,and minor cracks will develop wherever you store your horse. These will not seriously affect its integrity or safety, but keeping it away from extremes of humidity or temperature will minimise them.

hand crafted to your exact requirements by Chris Ward

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